last weekend was rather bizarre. it started on friday morning with a drunken man in our building telling us that "gringos are destroying latin america," followed by scott being surrounded and intimidated a day later by a bunch of chilenos practically poking him, saying "gringo, gringo." lastly, as a bunch of us "gringos" were enjoying a delicious breakfast at an australian joint, a british couple very audibly was mocking our accents. "ahh americans, i hate their accents" (something to that effect). i know brits are just like top notch linguists but i think my accent is quite fine. in fact, it is not uncommon to have people guess i'm from somewhere other than the states... nice huh? (we are loud as hell though, can't deny that one)
there's a lot to be said for a general dislike and distrust of white foreigners but to assume people have no differing opinions from their governments is wrong. (of course, all this is too much for a rebuttal with a drunk man at 12pm)... it's definitely popular to not like estadounidenses (USA-ians/Americans) if you are not from the 50-state union but sometimes it's a little much.
south america has historically been fucked by specifically the united states but to my knowledge, chile, a lot less so. i wouldn't have said this before i moved down here. before i came i would have said, well the US helped put allende out on the street. now, i'm not so sure. surely the US covertly/overtly supported the overthrow but i think the military's upheaval was a long time coming. many people were scared about what allende planned to do with the presidency. he was too socialist, didn't provide enough incentive for the working-class and many say, he was just all wrong. furthermore, chile has been able to stand on its own pretty well against the US. ricardo lagos (former chilean president) told the US to stuff it when asked for troop support in iraq. Chile is the only south american country to hold a trade agreement with the united states. they also export almost half of the world's supply of cobre (copper).
many people we spoke with about the incident merely referred to the drunken man with a wave of the hand and a "ahh weon" (indicating the man was just an asshole). i'm not trying to give the impression that these actions have been some kind of trend or anything, chileans in general are tremendously welcoming and thoughtful.
interestingly though... in many ways, ignorant, close-minded chileans are the same as close-minded americans in the united states. mostly. they're scared and feel threatened by foreigners... in their minds, peruvians are taking their jobs in the same way americans think mexicans are robbing them of jobs. there's also a similarity in the amount of news that americans and chileans, respectively, receive about the rest of the world. alida recently traveled to peru and said how in peru she read about chilean news, it was ubiquitous, but in chile she was hard-pressed to find any information about peru. this one-sided view is the same in the US regarding other countries. hell! we're lucky to get actual information on the national level in the US that's devoid of hyperbole and emotion.
if you want to talk about american culture permeating chile then don't eat at mcdonalds and don't watch hollywood films... if you want to talk about US policies affecting small countries, be glad you don't live in bolivia and if you want to have a discourse about the people's struggle against their governments worldwide, i'm all ears.
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Monday, November 23, 2009
Monday, November 9, 2009
interview
so about a month ago, i was on the side of a busy thoroughfare in santiago, waiting for a friend when two men (one with a microphone and one with a tv camera) approached me and thrust the microphone into my face. caught completely off-guard, i knew this was my moment of truth. how fluent was i going to sound in the next 5 seconds? the pressure was on... and generally with language and me, when the pressure is on i rarely perform very well. this time i nailed it!
side note- anonymous chileans, i would say in general, don't have too much tolerance for people who don't speak the language. if a chilean stops to ask you, a gringo, for directions (which does happen sometimes) and you stumble initially, they are more inclined to kind of walk away rather than repeat the question and give you another chance. additionally, they tend to correct your language pretty regularly, even if their critique is not requested.
all i remember hearing in those first two seconds after recognizing the microphone was "viste" and "ayer". if these 9 months have done anything for my spanish, it has been my listening comprehension that has vastly improved (or at least using key words to fill in my understanding of the greater whole). in order to buy myself time to figure out what the hell they were talking about, i tried to use what i heard to complete the puzzle. to start, i knew i hadn't seen anything notable yesterday and responded "no". when asked why, i said i had worked a lot the day before. then he gave me the key i needed! he asked me if i follow politics. i said, "chilean politics?" he said yes... ahhh yes! the guys were doing a street poll of last night's political debate for the presidential election coming up on dec. 13.
well i told him no, not really all i knew was there was an election and two major candidates, frei and piñera. he then said, semi-inquisitively, "you're chilean?" WOW! i couldn't believe it. no i said! do i look chilean? and he, perhaps embarrassed by his question, said well no, you aren't. i was so surprised. most times, people will randomly start shouting any english they know at me, no one thinks i'm chilean here. i've joked i want to use the very small amount of french or whatever i have to use that instead, and throw them off of thinking i'm from the states or england or whatever.
so the brief conversation concluded. i was sure to ask him what the taped interview was for. he responded.. a certain local television station... i could've been on tv! i never watched so i really don't know but i highly doubt it. i didn't have anything inspiring to add. i then watched as the crew moved quickly away from me onto their next target. and judging by body language, i would say no one was thrilled about being interviewed...
in the days that followed i talked to a few other people about what happened that night. apparently frei (comparable to a US democrat) took a rather ideal opportunity to discuss change and strategy (yes, presidential debates outside the US are not like reality tv shows- scripted and fake) and squandered it when he accused piñera of insider trading of LAN's stock (something he has already been cleared of, after paying a fine). in fact, the lady in this video outright accuses frei of "planting a polemic" into the evening and many say he ruined the debate. ruined the debate? that's the stuff debates thrive on in the US. they're rife with misinformation and outright lies. remember sarah palin's claims? anyway, apparently people who watched the debate said that frei looked embarassed for the remainder of the evening.
we'll see what happens here as they elect a new president. apparently their system is designed to have two elections, one run-off and one final one in january. many are saying the country will swing closer to the right and elect piñera but he'll have a tough time in january as the uber liberals who voted for the third-party candidate in december will have no choice but to vote for frei after their candidate is eliminated.
side note- anonymous chileans, i would say in general, don't have too much tolerance for people who don't speak the language. if a chilean stops to ask you, a gringo, for directions (which does happen sometimes) and you stumble initially, they are more inclined to kind of walk away rather than repeat the question and give you another chance. additionally, they tend to correct your language pretty regularly, even if their critique is not requested.
all i remember hearing in those first two seconds after recognizing the microphone was "viste" and "ayer". if these 9 months have done anything for my spanish, it has been my listening comprehension that has vastly improved (or at least using key words to fill in my understanding of the greater whole). in order to buy myself time to figure out what the hell they were talking about, i tried to use what i heard to complete the puzzle. to start, i knew i hadn't seen anything notable yesterday and responded "no". when asked why, i said i had worked a lot the day before. then he gave me the key i needed! he asked me if i follow politics. i said, "chilean politics?" he said yes... ahhh yes! the guys were doing a street poll of last night's political debate for the presidential election coming up on dec. 13.
well i told him no, not really all i knew was there was an election and two major candidates, frei and piñera. he then said, semi-inquisitively, "you're chilean?" WOW! i couldn't believe it. no i said! do i look chilean? and he, perhaps embarrassed by his question, said well no, you aren't. i was so surprised. most times, people will randomly start shouting any english they know at me, no one thinks i'm chilean here. i've joked i want to use the very small amount of french or whatever i have to use that instead, and throw them off of thinking i'm from the states or england or whatever.
so the brief conversation concluded. i was sure to ask him what the taped interview was for. he responded.. a certain local television station... i could've been on tv! i never watched so i really don't know but i highly doubt it. i didn't have anything inspiring to add. i then watched as the crew moved quickly away from me onto their next target. and judging by body language, i would say no one was thrilled about being interviewed...
in the days that followed i talked to a few other people about what happened that night. apparently frei (comparable to a US democrat) took a rather ideal opportunity to discuss change and strategy (yes, presidential debates outside the US are not like reality tv shows- scripted and fake) and squandered it when he accused piñera of insider trading of LAN's stock (something he has already been cleared of, after paying a fine). in fact, the lady in this video outright accuses frei of "planting a polemic" into the evening and many say he ruined the debate. ruined the debate? that's the stuff debates thrive on in the US. they're rife with misinformation and outright lies. remember sarah palin's claims? anyway, apparently people who watched the debate said that frei looked embarassed for the remainder of the evening.
we'll see what happens here as they elect a new president. apparently their system is designed to have two elections, one run-off and one final one in january. many are saying the country will swing closer to the right and elect piñera but he'll have a tough time in january as the uber liberals who voted for the third-party candidate in december will have no choice but to vote for frei after their candidate is eliminated.
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Sometimes You Need Some Good Home Cookin
Cait and I spend the weekend playing around Santiago's cerro San Cristobal. It's a great place to enjoy the day and it starts to get late, you can just head over one or two streets to the restaurant, bar, and club district of Bellavista. While I've always preferred a good house party over 'going out', I'll admit that Bellavista is a pretty cool place. One of it's best parts is the restaurant and jazz patio that attracts everyone from gringos to native Chileans. We took in some excellent beer and a couple half pound burgers. Always kills it.
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Solid Art
In addition to the slammin graffiti that is everywhere in Santiago, there are also many places where people have used tile to make a public place look that much more amazing. The style and use of this really reminds me of Portland, and the crazy stuff that you would see while walking through the different neighborhoods.
Monday, November 2, 2009
cerros... what the Hill are they?
Santiago is ringed by the Andés but as a result is also situated in the middle of a number of hills. A city with hills doesn't sound all that exciting but they're isolated from the rest of the valley plain that Santiago sits in. This arrangement gives them the roles of cell tower and religious monument bases, as well as permanent oases for the city's residents. In the last two weeks, Caitlin and I have visited both of them. Cerro San Cristobal has a HUGE statue of the virgin mary on top and Cerro Santa Lucia sports a more secular approach with Greek gods and Spanish conquistadors. San Cristobal is known for it's hiking, inclined cable car, zoo, and the requisite ice cream that you'd expect at the end of a long walk up a hill. Both provide a great view of the city though and are a nice way to 'get away' without putting in too much time.
Santa Lucia
Saturday, October 31, 2009
Andean Ski Season
After seeing some pictures of people taking advantage of the skiing down here, I debated for a while about bringing my skiis and snowshoes along for the ride down to Chile. In the end, I decided against it. I was, however, able to enjoy the flipped seasons and get some skiing done in July, and August, and September. I was never lucky enough to catch great snow... and I've heard that most of the best powder is in the south on the Argentinian side... but I've never skied in more beautiful terrain. Portillo is one of the most famous resorts here in the Andés and it even serves as the summer home for the US Ski team. Look what I found hanging on their Portillo Olympic Wall of Fame!
Friday, October 30, 2009
Nomadic Friends
Our friends Tim and Sam recently left Santiago to continue their trip after staying here to work and recharge the money for about 6 months. Good friend have been in healthy supply here, which I didn't expect before arriving, but losing high quality people is never an easy thing. It makes me miss people at home even more... especially the guy friends... as losing Tim leaves me in a bit of a man-down situation. Now I'm not complaining about all the ladies who decided to become English teachers... I'm just sayin, it's good to have some manpanionship every once and a while. You'd be surprised what some crude humor will do for the spirit.
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
How To Celebrate Chilean Independence
As Caitlin wrote here, we had the opportunity to enjoy the Chilean Independence Day with the family of a good friend. The famil
y is from a coastal town called Pichilemu. It's about 3 hours southwest of Santiago and the drive was spectacular. There were mountain sections that begged to be driven on a bike and views and 
fantastic landscapes of rolling hills, vineyards, and forest. The rest of the weekend consisted of alternating between eating grilled meat, enjoying the coast at one of a couple different family homes, and taking in the local festival. These festivals were happening all over the country
, in every town, in similar fashion. Barbecued food, handcrafted art, music, and plenty of the traditional grapewine - Chicha. Chileans are known for their ability to knock back the booze and Chicha only gives them another excuse to keep the party going. Between the flag colors, the family barbecues and apple cider-tasting Chicha...it felt like home sweet home.
y is from a coastal town called Pichilemu. It's about 3 hours southwest of Santiago and the drive was spectacular. There were mountain sections that begged to be driven on a bike and views and 
fantastic landscapes of rolling hills, vineyards, and forest. The rest of the weekend consisted of alternating between eating grilled meat, enjoying the coast at one of a couple different family homes, and taking in the local festival. These festivals were happening all over the country
, in every town, in similar fashion. Barbecued food, handcrafted art, music, and plenty of the traditional grapewine - Chicha. Chileans are known for their ability to knock back the booze and Chicha only gives them another excuse to keep the party going. Between the flag colors, the family barbecues and apple cider-tasting Chicha...it felt like home sweet home.
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