departamentos

Last week contained a variety of hilarious experiences as far as apartment hunting goes. Before heading down here I was convinced that I could find an affordable place for both Scott and I to live (entirely on my salary)... When I finally arrived here I could easily find rooms for 150.000 to 180.000 (yay inflation) including everything. As soon as I told them it was a couple, the price quickly jumped to well over 200.000. Asking "why" many different times to many different people, I ended up concluding I would forced to pay a gringo tax for the two of us to exist in the same space.

We explored options in the cheap range (90.000 for a room) and expensive (300.000 for an apartment). We spent less than 2 minutes in the expensive place, brand new, knowing full well we couldn't afford it. Scott and I were really excited about the 90.000, live with a Chileno deal. It couldn't be that bad, we thought. Wrong! Coming off of a road-trip adventure Scott was kind of excited about living in a shack (which in all reality was what it was). Upon leaving he says "it's alright right now I just don't know what we'd do if it rained."

We decided to check out some mid-range places. Before entering an apartment in Central Santiago, a group of Chilean boys whispered to us "muy fea" seconds before the owner opened the door to us (leaving us unsure about whether they were talking about the owner herself or the apartment). It ended up being a very bizarre experience; the owner was sitting on the bed, blasting "All I need is a miracle" by Mike and the Mechanics and bearing a weird yet undeniably seductive smile. She was kind of like Annette Benning in "American Beauty" but without the sexiness.

We were relieved when we finally found something right up our alley: 1 bedroom, enough space, close to my school!, fantastic rooftop view, free bike parking and storage, communal washer and dryer (with funny little machines that vend a token each in a little box) and free exercise room. :) :) Come visit!

This is the view from our window on the 7th floor!

Scott's Customs Adventure

With all the excitement about arriving in Chile, you'd think the entire plane flight would be spent gaming out how to get into the country. But alas, I was distracted by the free beer, feel-good Disney movie about overcoming racism through sports, and some delicious food! So, as soon as I could get my seatbelt off, I was barreling through the airport terminal on my way to Customs.
My passport in hand, I was turned away and told to walk all the way back to fill out a declaration form and pay my official entrance fee of $130 US Clams. On the right path now, I again rushed to the customs window with a huge smile on my face only to be directed....again...to fill out more forms. Finally, with a pile of paperwork, bags hanging off in all directions, I slogged my way back to the counter. My forms crumpled...my face sweaty...and my spirits undashed, I explained to the customs agent that I was no threat to his country. He wanted to know things like; who I knew here and where I would be staying. Now worries, I replied, this girl I know is coming to get me and bring me to this place she's staying. Where? She knows... no worries.
He watched me walk away with a look of regret but I think he ended up taking me as pathetic gringo rather than a dangerous foreigner.

Things have been wonderful. Between welcoming Chileans, friendly travelers, and eager new friends, culture shock hasn't been an issue. In fact, the culture here seems so similar... maybe just different shades of the same color. The language is really the challenging thing at this point. I've dropped off four resumes, received one invitation for an interview, and am looking forward to callbacks after positive interactions with each business. I miss you all and can't wait to catch up!

the "pololo" phenomenon

Everywhere you go in Santiago (Vina and Valparaiso), there are couples making out. Poloandarse is the reflexive verb that corresponds to this activity (like dating). It's as if the act of displaying public affection actually gives one's relationship more credibility. Pololos are as prevalent as unleashed dogs. What's hilarious about this "coupling" is that one minute their tongues are down each others' throats and in the next, they're packed up and ready to leave, as if nothing happened. Coming from the States, I don't know, I kind of expect a pornographic scene to commence. Alas, making out ends sometimes abruptly and people go on their way.

I had a great time in Vina del Mar yesterday. Summer is ending so the beach was relatively empty. The water was cold but definitely not as chilly as Maine's Atlantic- I don't care how "frio" Chileans think it is :)...

Que piensas?

random list of things about santiago

1. Despite the deliciousness of South American Coffee, everyone drinks instant here.
2. Meat is in everything; in fact there is so much meat it's hard to keep the meat related words in Spanish straight.
3. Gringo is a word that has it's origin in the Mexican/American war when US soldiers wore green and the Mexicans yelled, "green, go home". It can refer to Europeans or those from the States positively, negatively or neutrally.
4. Most Chileans talk to whomever they're with on the street about the "gringos" when you walk by but very occasionally a Chilean (part of the only 3 percent who speak English) will yell at you and run up to you "HEY you speak English" and really what they want is a chance to practice their English with you.
5. In accordance with #4 above- When you do encounter a Chilean who speaks English (to any degree really) and they've been to the States, they love to tell you if they have been to Las Vegas. Maybe you'd be impressed with this? Interestingly also, I found the same in Egypt.
6. If you need sal (salt), you're in luck here. If for some reason you'd also want some pimienta (pepper), too bad!
7. I have tried the national drink of Chile (which Argentina contends is theirs) and it is VERY delicious if made correctly. MMMmm pisco sour!
8. Yogurt comes in bags and so does marmelada.
9. Chilean food seems to be mostly bland. To illustrate this, the other day a group of us were walking down the street when our noses hijacked us and we found ourselves inside a Peruvian restaurant immediately, prepared to order. NOTE- Peruvian food seems to cost four times as much. Take caution.
10. People say "gracia" here instead of "gracias". This follows for other words with s's. "Buenas dias" becomes "buen dia" and so on and so on.
11. The youth here are very emo. Black clothes, black hair, black eye liner, chucks, music t-shirts.
12. Cell phones cost nothing here if you only receive calls or texts and don't make them.
13. A bottle of wine costs anywhere from 1,000 to 4,000 CP (less than 2 dollars to less than 7). Let me tell you it gives a whole new meaning to the phrase "two-buck chuck".
14. Montana Portillo is home of the best skiing around and it's only an hour outside of Santiago.
15. As probably follows with the rest of South America, buses can get you anywhere you want to go, affordably. This is true even if you're dead set on Patagonia (only a quick 18 hours away!)
16. Tu forma en Espanol is the way to go. No one uses Usted; in fact Ud. is used as a formality only very briefly. People shift to "Tu form" only minutes after meeting one another.
17. Living in a hostel is NOT a good way to continue learning Spanish.
18. Playing futbol in the park is great fun though you may need to clear pololos and homeless out of the way first (ok so I didn't ask them for fear of being rude- another Chilean did).
19. Being gay is ok, even cool!! One of my fellow teachers from the hostel here is moving into a multicultural house whose two duenos (means owners-n-yay on that n) who advertise for the openings by saying they are "two gay Chileanos seeking..."

los primeros dias

After a long and rather tedious night of flying and negotiating with golden retriever drug sniffing dogs and airline attendants who wouldn't let me use the bathroom, I arrived in balmy Santiago de Chile (yes there is more than one in Latin America). With my gringa "speak like a Chilean" book, I attracted interested Chileans on the flight from Miami to Bogota and quickly made friends. Long story short, they graciously offered me a free place to stay (and free fun- all written on a little note) in their city of Vina del Mar.

Meeting them was only a tiny introduction to how wonderfully helpful and nice Chileans seem to be. I'm here teaching English with a large university system that has locations in major areas in Chile and have been impressed with reactions I have received after pulling Chileans aside (perdon?) and asking random questions. One lady went so far as to wrap her arm entirely around me in order to point out where things were on a map I had been holding in front of me.

Here's one of the most interesting tidbits I have been able to uncover rather quickly... There are many Chileans who actually LOVE Pinochet. Did you think I meant Allende (the inarguably Democratic-ly elected president), no I meant the forcefully installed dictator who came to power in 1973. Forgive me if you are Chilean reading this thinking I am ignorant... I JUST HAD NO IDEA! It's fascinating really.
1) Apparently you either love him or hate him, there's not much in between (makes sense).
2) Killing like a whole bunch of other Chileans must be forgiveable in some major way.
3) People must feel like a whole lot changed for the better when he was in power.
4) Sept. 11th (represents the day he came to power) brings about a major protest every year that always ends in some degree of human tragedy.

Enough politics for now... My first few days were spent meeting people from my program and hostel. I have been to the infamous Plaza de Armas in Centro and climbed San Cristobal. Imagine- a pool at the top of a small mountain, where the city and base of the Andes set the backdrop-

I know, trust me it WAS amazing. More pictures and stories to share when my partner in crime (Scott) gets here....